Silk Road forums
Discussion => Off topic => Topic started by: SpaceCrabs on September 24, 2012, 07:50 am
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Salvia is expensive as fuck! Almost 8 bitcoins for x60, that's over $90! Since fresh salvia leaves are much cheaper, i thought about making my own. Shit is, I can't seem to find any methods for anything higher than x20. So sexy SR'ers do you guys know any extraction methods that yields highly potent Salvia extract? Preferably, higher than x40, maybe even x80!
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it would take advanced chemistry technique and equipment
you can just take the standard IPA or acetone extract, and if you use 40 grams of leaf to extract, then fortify 1 gram of leaf with the entire extract... you then have 40x salvia i would think
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http://imageevent.com/sphere/salvinorincrystals
enjoy ~
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here is a tried and tested guide, upto 5x strengh just use IPA and evaporate, higher extract goals with require naphtha
guide, stolen from clearnet;
"Have you ever tried making your own crude Salvia divinorum extract at home, and wondered why it looks like a black sticky mess that smokes harsher than a porcupine eating competition? Well, fear not, for this guide will ensure a quality finished product rivalling that of store-bought extracts.
This extract will make approximately 10g of unstandardised 10x extract. Provided you can use a calculator, the quantities detailed below can be jiggled around to make any strength extract you want.
Salvia divinorum Leaf
Equipment
100g Salvia divinorum Leaf
You can get Salvia divinorum Leaf all over the Internet.
1x Large Saucepan
Just a regular large saucepan. Make sure it’s clean. No one wants to find the remains of burnt on spaghetti in their pipe.
1x Pyrex Tray
A large, wide, glass dish essentially. You might find a casserole dish fits the bill.
1x Small Glass Container
Anything will do, even a jam jar.
1x Tall, Narrow Glass Container
The perfect tool for the job is a boiling tube, but anything remotely similar will do.
1x Pipette
Not everyone has access to calibrated volumetric pipettes so anything that looks like an eye dropper will do. That means, a thin tube with a rubber bit on the end which you can squeeze.
2lt Propane Based Solvent
No not propane, but either propan-2-ol (AKA Isopropanol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Rubbing Alcohol) or propanone (AKA Acetone). They need to be 99% pure at least. Don’t even think about using nail varnish remover.
300ml Naphtha
The best source of commercially available naphtha in the UK is lighter fluid.
Step 1 - Powder Your Leaf
The first thing to do is weigh out your 100g of Salvia divinorum Leaf. Remove 10g of the best leaves from your stash and set them aside for later. The remaining 90g needs to be powdered using your trusty coffee grinder. It’s high RPM motor and stainless steel blades are no match for your dried salvia leaf. It’s worth pointing out that although the leaves may not instantly grind, you’ll have to give them a few minutes, but they WILL powder eventually. Use the grinder in 1 minute bursts, allowing the motor to cool in between. When you remove the lid from the grinder, unless you want to look like Shrek, do it in a fume cupboard. The coffee grinder will reduce the leaf to a flour like consistency which will billow out as soon as you remove the lid, turning everything in the immediate vicinity a sexy shade of green.
Step 2 - Extract The Salvinorin-A
Now you have 90g of powdered leaf, get it in your saucepan and pour in enough solvent to comfortably cover your leaf. Stir it constantly for 5 minutes and then let it sit for 8 hours or so. After that time, enough of the salvinorin should have dissolved in your solvent, so you can now carefully pour off the liquid in your saucepan into your Pyrex tray, being careful enough to leave all the solids behind.
If you’d like to make sure you extract as much salvinorin-a as possible, you may repeat this step once more.
Step 3 - The Waiting Game
As simple as it sounds, you have about 16 hours in which to twiddle your thumbs, watch some paint dry, or whatever you feel like. During this time, don’t even think about touching your extraction, and make sure it’s in a dark place. Light has a nasty habit of destroying salvinorin-a in solution. The purpose of this step is to let any sediment such as tannins fall out of the leaf which are hard to extract later on.
After the 16 or so hours are up, you may pour off the remaining liquid into the original saucepan, provided you emptied out the powdered leaf earlier.
Step 4 - Evaporating The Solvent
This takes forever, is incredibly boring and will give you terrible stomach ache if you don’t do it somewhere well ventilated. The best, safest and longest method of evaporating the solvent is in the dark, in the absence of heat. Remember, the solvent is flammable, so applying heat to it should be avoided. Blowing air across the solvent will speed things up substantially, so if you have a fan, use it, but again, only somewhere well ventilated. If the fan produces a spark, it could ignite the vapour, blowing up both you and your extraction.
When the evaporation is complete, you should be left with a load of black gunk on the inside of your container. This is as far as most people get with their extractions and is the reason why the end result is a black sticky mess. That’s ok for about 5x or 6x extracts, but any stronger than that and it becomes unsmokable.
Step 5 - Purification
When your black gunk is completely dry, you can scrape it out of your container and place it into a tall, narrow container. To this, add 50ml or so of naphtha. The naphtha dissolves the green/black waxes but leaves behind the salvinorin-a. After you add the first lot of naphtha, allow the container 30 minutes or so to settle, then pipette off two thirds of the naphtha and discard it. Repeat this process at LEAST 5 more times until your salvinorin-a is no longer a black colour. If you keep washing with naphtha, it will eventually turn white, however that kind of purity isn’t necessary for making 10x extract. If you were making something like 40x or 60x (not recommended), then the higher the purity, the better.
After the last naphtha wash, remove two thirds one last time and this time, allow the naphtha to evaporate off, leaving you with relatively pure salvinorin-a. DO NOT try and smoke/ingest this, as even a tenth of a milligram can be too much for some people.
Step 6 - Fortification
Now we have the salvinorin-a from 90g of leaf, we shall add it back to the 10g of quality leaf you set aside in Step 1. Although not completely accurate, you can see this is why it’s called 10x extract, as there’s 10x the amount of salvinorin-a in the finished product.
To do this, we place the salvinorin-a we produced in the previous step into the saucepan and add to it the same amount of solvent we used in step 1. Stir it round for a few minutes to ensure it has all dissolved. Next, add the 10g of leaf to your small container and pour the contents of the saucepan over it.
You can now evaporate off all of this solvent as before, until all of the solvent has evaporated.
The finished product is approximately 10g of leaf, looking a little darker than normal, 10 times as strong.
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I wouldn't mind if someone could extract the memory of my salvia experience.
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seriously... it is the most uncomfortable experience i have ever experienced
stupidest most undesirable psychedelic ever
also OP didnt just ask for an extraction method, he even mentioned he already had seen multiple methods to produce up to 20x. he specifically asked for a way to produce greater than a 20x extraction if anyone knows please share
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It was just a light jest, a small attempt at humor. No offense or disrespect meant.
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http://www.sagewisdom.org/faq.html#Section 13
Take your dried leaf material and divide it into two portions one of which weighs 5 times as much as the other. Call the smaller portion B and the larger portion A. For this example we will assume you want to make about 5 G of 6X extract enhanced leaves. You will need to start with 30 G of leaf powder. You would divide the 30 G into a 5 G sample and a 25 G sample.
You will need a suitable solvent for dissolving salvinorin A. The solvent should not contain any non-volatile impurities. Several possibilities exist: ethanol, methylene chloride, 91% isopropyl alcohol, acetone, etc. If using ethanol. It is best to use either denatured ethanol or absolute alcohol. Drinking alcohol of less than 190 proof is a poor solvent for salvinorin because of its water content. Absolute alcohol is pure ethanol, containing no more than 1% water. Denatured ethanol, is ethanol that has been rendered unsuitable for human consumption by the addition of a small percentage of a poisonous substance such as methanol or isopropyl alcohol. It is usually much less expensive than absolute alcohol or high proof drinking alcohol. When obtaining denatured alcohol, look for the kind that is denatured with isopropyl alcohol rather than methanol. It is much less toxic and therefore safer to handle. Never consume an extract that has been prepared with denatured alcohol until ALL traces of alcohol have been thoroughly evaporated. The extraction below can be done using any of the above solvents. Ethanol is the least toxic choice, and acetone is considered only slightly toxic. Chloroform is a known carcinogen and should be avoided. The extraction can be done at room temperature. CAUTION: BOTH ACETONE, AND ALL THE TYPES OF ALCOHOL MENTIONED, ARE HIGHLY FLAMMABLE. If working indoors a spark proof fume hood should be used. Avoid static sparks from carpets and use of flame. To avoid toxicity and fire, this extraction is best done outdoors away from all sparks and sources of flame.
Make sure the solvent used is of high purity and will evaporate completely (hardware store solvents might contain impurities). To test for non-volatile impurities, evaporate a drop of the solvent on a very clean piece of clear glass. After the solvent is evaporated, hold the glass over a black surface and look for any white deposits on the glass, then hold it over a white surface and look for any dark deposits. Also pick up the glass and look through it to see if there is any oily residue. This is like checking ones eyeglasses to see if they are clean. Any residual deposits on the glass indicate that the solvent leaves residue i.e. that it is impure. If it leaves no residue or stain and no residual odor or taste it is unlikely that it will leave any impurities in your extract enhanced leaves, provided that it is thoroughly evaporated from them prior to use.
Powder the 25 G sample and place it into a glass mason jar that has a screw top (make sure the seal on the jar top is not soluble in the solvent). Add at least 125 ml (1/2 cup) of solvent. Screw on the top. Shake well for 2 minutes. Let sit for a minimum of 24 hours (several days might yield a more complete extraction). Shake periodically (at least 5 or 6 times over the course of the extraction period). Then pour the entire contents of the jar though a fine mesh wire strainer (a tea strainer will do). Save all the solvent. With the back of a spoon squeeze the stuff in the strainer dry. Save the solvent that you squeeze out. Re-extract the filtered leaf material in an addition 125 ml fresh solvent. As before, filter and squeeze the leaves dry, saving the solvent squeezed out. Pool all the solvent that has been in contact with the leaf material. Discard the spent leaves. Place the solvent in a broad, shallow container such as a pan or baking sheet. The container should be made of glass, stainless steel or Teflon lined steel. Cover with a wire strainer or screen and allow to evaporate out of doors. If this is impractical evaporation can be done indoors next to an exhaust fan or under a fume hood (open windows to insure good ventilation). Be careful though if the exhaust fan motor emits electrical sparks it may ignite the vapors. If doing indoor evaporation choose a solvent low in toxicity. When little solvent is left, add portion B of the leaves. Stir with a wooden utensil. Spread out thinly and allow to continue to air dry. The leaves will absorb the residual liquid. Allow to air dry thoroughly until free of all solvent odor and if possible until dry to the touch. Break up any clumps. Finally, the extract should be spread out thinly on an oven proof plate and placed in a 150 to 170 degree F oven for an hour. Exposure to this temperature will not destroy salvinorin but should remove any residual traces of solvent. The oven door should be cracked open an inch during this final "desolventing." Store in a sealed jar. Test by opening the jar after a day and smelling. If a solvent odor is present there is still residual solvent in the material and further drying is required prior to use.
You now have your smoking mixture. This is a 6X enhancement i.e. theoretically the leaf material is now 6 times as strong as unenhanced leaf material, so smoke it with great care, and have a sitter present. This stuff can be very strong.
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It was just a light jest, a small attempt at humor. No offense or disrespect meant.
i wasnt saying seriously, like why would you say that...
i was agreeing with you
i just said its the worst experience with a psychedelic i have ever had and didnt say but was suggesting i wouldnt mind forgetting that either.
i think its kinda stupid people use it but thats just because i didnt enjoy it, but i was curious at one time. and just because i tried to help suggest extraction methods, doesnt mean i think its a great idea. just willing to try to help.
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its just hiliarious to me how people kinda waste their time, like they read the title but dont even read the actual request
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Why don't you just buy pure Salvinorin-A?
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its just hiliarious to me how people kinda waste their time, like they read the title but dont even read the actual request
So what did i paste a recipe for making pancakes? you asked for a extraction method to create high extract ratio, thats exactly what was provided.
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all i was referring to is that OP stated he had seen recipes for up to 20x. he asked for higher then that, and your recipes states its for 10x.
sorry if i missed it, but like i proposed but dont know if it will work, please clarify if there is a way to use that 10x recipe to create a 40x or even 80x like the thread was asking for...
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all i was referring to is that OP stated he had seen recipes for up to 20x. he asked for higher then that, and your recipes states its for 10x.
sorry if i missed it, but like i proposed but dont know if it will work, please clarify if there is a way to use that 10x recipe to create a 40x or even 80x like the thread was asking for...
yes man, the method i posted can be used for x20 x40 x60 upwards, the key is cleaning with naphtha,
after about 5x extract you left with so much chlorophyll that it requires to be removed to keep the extract clean and pure, in theory you can repeat the cleaning process for 100x salvia if you wish.