Silk Road forums
Discussion => Drug safety => Topic started by: riotfox69 on July 12, 2012, 02:59 pm
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Hello everyone, I recently received some black tar from hatter and have IVed it a few times. This was my first time doing H but I have a somewhat high tolerance for other opiates such as fentanyl, but I have been out of that and slightly withdrawling for a few days (used some 5mg percocets to help ward off withdrawls). Anyways I have a few questions about IV black tar that I am confused on due to contradicting answers on the web:
First, is heat NECESSARY to get the most out of the product? Most people say heat is necessary for whatever reason but then I ran into a forum post where several people said that you do not even need to apply heat, that when it dissolves in cold water the heroin will go right into the water, is this true? The black tar that I have just dissolves in cold water with a little stirring, but doesn't take to long, then I am left with a rusty looking/desert sand liquid with light browns specks (lots) that don't seem to be as water soluble.
I just feel like I might be loosing part of the drug from filtering or something because it should probably be stronger then it is for me. When I heat it it seems those darker specks in the solution go away, is some of the H trapped in those specks or are they all garbage impurities? Will I be loosing some or alot of the drug if I filter without heating? Or am I possibly loosing some of the drug by heating it?
Second, is it absolutely necessary to filter every shot (I use micron filter)? (based on above)
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Here's what I would consider best & safest way to IV Black Tar. Wheel Filters are Absolutely Essential, especially for Tar.
For the sake of safety I am going to go through the very steps used to make IV’ing Tar less punishing to your veins. Tar is not like powder.
All tars have by products that must be minimized for your safety.
1. I used a 100 unit (1 milliliter) diabetic syringe having the smallest gauge available of 30. I drew up one full milliliter of purified bottle water and squirted it into a standard Tablespoon. I then rolled up the tar into a small ball and dropped it mid center of the spoon and water. I then heated up the spoon with a lighter to warm the water. Once I saw steam rising, I stopped. You do not want to let water boil. I then took the cap cover of the syringe and began to push and separate the tar into the water. Once the tar had broken down and was fully dissolved, I dropped in a blue Litmus Paper. The color remained bright blue indicating a high alkaline content. I then took the lighter and re-heated a second time.
The water was a very dark, thick color.
2. I placed a small piece of cotton into the spoon and sucked up the solution until the spoon was empty and the cotton fully heaved. I then took my moistened .22-micron wheel filter and ran the tar solution through it and back onto the spoon. At this point the tar solution was much more clear, almost slight rust color. I then took an eyedropper and put in about 3 drops of a natural apple cider vinegar into the spoon. I took a fresh piece of Litmus Paper and the paper now turned into a lighter blue indicating the Ph level had been raised from alkaline to a more neutral Ph. I placed a new piece of cotton into the spoon and sucked up all the solution with the syringe until the cotton was fully heaved a second time. The watercolor was now slightly brown tinted and appropriately Ph balanced to minimize sting to my veins.
3. I then took some antibacterial soap gel and washed the area at the bend of my elbow where a nice juicy vein was. I burped the syringe, wiped my vein with cotton. The needle was inserted into my vein, then I drew back to check for blood flow to ensure I had hit the vein. When using tar, it is very important that you hit a vein and not pop your skin, as this is where Black Tar can create the most damage to tissue. I shot in approximately 50 units (1/2 a milliliter) and then withdrew the needle. I waited about 5 to 10 minutes and began to feel the dope kick in and blew the rest of the syringe into my vein. The tar still stung some indicating that the next time I need a few more drops of vinegar. I got a real nice heavy, yet mellow buzz.
For those of you that are Not into IV’ing, you can simply follow steps 1 and 2 and instead of a syringe use an eyedropper and place about 5 drops into each nostril. If there’s any sting adjust with apple cider vinegar.
For Powder Heroin, simply follow the same Steps EXCEPT:
Step 1. You do not have to Heat a 2nd time.
Step 2. You typically only need to pass through cotton one time.
You do not need to add Vinegar or anything to change Ph
oppyate
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I have seen and read this online, actually last night. It does not answer the questions I specifically asked about whether heat is required, whether you loose active ingredients, what the liquid should look like before filtering and after, etc. I feel like I am loosing product somehow, I think I might be filtering to early. The tar dissolves by iotself in cold water and leaves tan specks that turn the water an amber color but you can still see the specks if you put to a light; am I supposed to heat until the point where you can no longer see specks / materials within the water if you put it up to light and then filter, or do I not need to heat that much or at all? Does something in those specks need to be "released" for there to be more H in the product?
At what point can I be confident that most if not all, of the H , is now in the water and can be put through a filter without loosing any product?
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Tar needs to be Heated Twice. By heated I mean to point that you see Steam, but not bubbling or Boiling. The first heating helps to melt Tar.
2nd Heating is to separate Impurities.
You will lose some Potency when you use wheel Filter but it is insignificant in relation to Filtering out larger Impurities in Tar,
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the only tar i will touch is hatters because i just cant stand melting it down and seeing how disgusting it is than shooting it in my veins. hatters stuff is amazing though.