Silk Road forums
Discussion => Off topic => Topic started by: DrJohnny on June 06, 2012, 12:09 am
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Hi Community!
Here is some Random stuff I´ve on my HDD, if you want more like MDMA, Meth whatever, just ask.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
How To Make LSD (Kitchen)
-------------------------
[1> Grind up 150 grams of morning glory seeds or Hawaiian wood rose seeds.
[2> In 130 cc. of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two days.
[3> Filter the solution through a tight screen.
[4> Throw away the liquid, and allow the seed mush to dry.
[5> For two days allow the mush to soak in 110 cc. of wood alcohol.
[6> Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling it "1".
[7> Resoak the mush in 110 cc. of wood alcohol for two days.
[8> Filter and throw away the mush.
[9> Add the liquid from the second soak to the solution labeled "1".
[10> Pour the liquid into a cookie tray and allow it to evaporate.
[11> When all the liquid has evaporated, a yellow gum remains. This should
be scraped up and put into capsules.
30 grams of morning glory seeds = one trip
15 Hawaiian wood rose seeds = one trip
Many companies, such as Northop-King, have been coating their seeds with a
toxic chemical, which is poison. Order seeds from a wholesaler, as it is
much safer and cheaper. Hawaiian wood rose seeds can be ordered directly from:
Chong's Nursery and Flowers
P.O. Box 2154
Honolulu, Hawaii
************************************************
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|||||||||||||||--> The Wonder Trip > Making LSD In The Kitchen! |||||||||||||||
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LSD In The Kitchen! Somthing To Do For Those People That Like To Stay Home
and Be Sick!
First of All, All we're doing is extracting the lysergic acid amides
either from morning glory (Yeah! Those things your mom's growing in the
front yeard!) or Hawaiian wood rose seeds...Prepared in the kitchen...
1) Grind up 150 grams of morning glory seeds or baby hawaiian wood rose seeds.
2) In 130 cc. of petroleum ether soak the seeds for two days.
3) Filter the Solution through a tight screen.
4) Throw away the liquid and let the seed mush dry.
5) For two days allow the seed mush to soak in 110 cc. of wood alchohol.
6) Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling it "1".
7) Resoak the mush in 110 cc. of wood alcohol for two days
8) Filter and throw away mush.
9) Add the liquid from the second soak to the solution labeled "1".
10) Pour the liquid into a cookie tray and allow to evaporate.
11) When all the liquid has evaporated, a yellow gum remains. This should be
scraped up into capsules.
30 Grams Of Morning Glory Seeds = One Trip
15 Grams Hawaiian Wood Rose Seeds = One Trip
many companies coat their seeds in toxic chemicals, it is best to buy them
from a wholesaler...Like My Friend Chong-
Chong's Nursery And Flowers
P.O. Box 2154
Honolulu, Hawaii
Go For it....
o / _._
/\/\ i \ | O
/
/\
\/ \/ E |` L <> |` D
Oh Yeah, That Was 209-431-3067 not 3025!!
Pirates Cove Sux
====================
= MAKING LSD =
= =
= By Byte Rider =
====================
LSD, being of the strangest drugs, is avaliable to people on the black
market, is not too hard to make in your average run-of-the-mill kitchen.
LSD (LySergic acid Diethylamide) is a complex organic mixure that gives
some people (most) ================================
Making LSD:
ITEMS NEEDE:
1-About 200-250 grams of MORNIGLOR SEEDS or BAY HAWAIIAN OOD ROSE
SEEDS. The Morning Glory Seeds can be abtained at most plant nurseries.
2-200 cc. of petroleum ether
3-Small peice of window screen or a strainer.
4-A couple of large glasses.
5-One cookie try (old on to never be used again).
6-260 cc. of wood alcohol (call your local drug store).
7-Capsule containers (jel)
========================================
Lets get started:
1. Grind up about 170 grams of Morning Glory Seeds.
2. In 145 cc of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two or three days.
3. With screen, filter the liquid thru it and save the seed mush and allow
it to dry completely.
4. Let the mush soak in 130 cc. of wood alcohol.
5. Filter solution again only. Save the liquid in a large glass jar.
6. Soak the seed mush again in 130 cc. of wood alcohol for two more days.
7. Filter out the mush and keep the liquid. Now, get the liquid that was
saved in step 5.
8. Now, pour both liquids in a cookie tray and let it dry.
9. When all the liquid has dried, a yellowish gummy looking substince will
appear on the cookie sheet.
10. Take the yellow gum and put these in to capsules.
========================================
You can get the capsules just by buying something like DEXITREM or some
other pill. Even CONTACT comes in jel capsules. Just empty them out and
put the yellow gum in the capsules. Allow the capsules to sit over night
for best results.
34 Grams of morning glory=one trip to da moon
18 Grams of hawaiian wood=Another trip to da moon.
========================================
This File Leeched From RAT HEAD -=DRS=- Member of The Digital Rodent Syndicate
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How to make LSD
[All text used without permission
from the "Whole Drug Manufacturers Catalog"
Any typos are YOUR problem
For informational purposes only
I take NO responsibility for YOUR actions
Be careful --Ed.]
NOTE: the techniques described herein are potentially dangerous. It
is highly recommended that the physical and chemical properties of
the reagents used and the reactions employed be given further study
by persons unfamiliar with them. For the layman to attempt these
procedures without first thoroughly preparing himself is to invite
almost certain disaster. The publishers therefore disclaim
responsibility for any damage or injury resulting from the improper
handling of the chemicals and techniques described, and strongly
urge all persons unqualified to perform the reactions to use
extraction rather than synthesis.
#1: Kitchen chemistry
Extraction of LSA (Lysergic acid amide)
from Morning Glory (Ipomosea Purpurea) seeds
or Hawaiian Baby Wood Rose (Argyreia Nervosa) seeds
NOTE: Morning Glory seeds may be coated with a toxic chemical by
the seed company in order to prevent ingestion. If a packet of
seeds contains coated seeds this fact should be stated on the
container. Soaking the seeds in warm water for 1/2 hour and
rinsing in a strainer should remove this coating.
NOTE: while many varieties of morning glory contain the active LSA
(Lysergic acid amide), the yield varies greatly. Therefore, use
only Pearly Gates, Wedding Bells, and Heavenly Blue varieties for
best results.
Kitchen chemistry follows.
Materials: blender, funnel, filter paper, petroleum ether or
lighter fluid, methanol (wood alcohol), glass jar,
Pyrex baking dish
Grind Morning Glory or Hawaiian Baby Wood Rose seeds in a
blender until they are a fine powder, and spread them out to
dry.
Soak the powder with lighter fluid or petroleum ether. Cap
the container to avoid fumes, and don't smoke nearby, or
you'll be very sorry.
In a well-ventilated area (neither ether nor lighter fluid are
good for you), filter the solution through filter paper in a
funnel. Discard the filtrate (the liquid).
Dry mash completely.
Soak mash in methanol (wood alcohol) for 2 days. Be careful
-
its vapors are poisonous and may be explosive.
Filter, and save the filtrate.
Soak the mash in methanol again a further 2 days.
Filter. Discard the mash, save the filtrate.
Pour both filtrates into a large, flat dish and evaporate in
the absence of direct sunlight. Sunlight will break down the
LSA. Preferably, perform ALL procedures in a cool, well-
ventilated place away from sunlight.
After evaporation, a yellow gum will remain in the dish.
Scrape it up.
To dose on the LSA, add some harmless filler (starch, flour,
milk sugar) to the gum until it is not sticky. Put in gelatin
capsules or take as is. 30 g Morning Glory seeds or 15
Hawaiian Baby Woodrose seeds should make a goodly trip, so
adjust dosage accordingly.
If you want to turn LSA into LSD, you can [see below], but
it's MUCH more difficult and VERY unsafe.
#2: Extraction of Lysergic Acid Amides
Start with domestic Morning Glory seeds, the young seeds of
the Hawaiian Baby Wood Rose, cultured ergot or naturally
occurring ergot compounds.
NOTE: Morning Glory seeds may be coated with a toxic chemical by
the seed company in order to prevent ingestion. If a packet of
seeds contains coated seeds this fact should be stated on the
container. Soaking the seeds in warm water for 1/2 hour and
rinsing in a strainer should remove this coating.
NOTE: while many varieties of morning glory contain the active LSA
(Lysergic acid amide), the yield varies greatly. Therefore, use
only Pearly Gates, Wedding Bells, and Heavenly Blue varieties for
best results.
Reduce seed material to a fine powder in a blender, and spread
it out to dry. Grind again if not fine enough after the first
time due to dampness.
Saturate powdered seed material with lighter fluid, naphtha or
ligroine. When completely saturated, it should have the
consistency of soup.
Pour into a chromatography column and let it sit overnight.
Remove the fatty oils from the material by dripping the
solvent through the column slowly, and testing the liquid that
comes through for fats by evaporating a drop on clean glass
until it leaves no greasy film. (It should take several
ounces of solvent for each ounce of seeds).
Mix 9 volumes of chloroform with 1 volume of concentrated
ammonium hydroxide and shake in a separatory funnel. When it
settles, the chloroform layer will be on the bottom. Drain
the chloroform layer and discard the top layer.
Drip the chloroform wash through the column and save the
extract. test continuously by evaporating a drop on clean
glass until it ceases to fluoresce.
[It is NOT explicit in the source, but if extracting
from ergot, I would start with the ergot alkaloid base at
this point. --Ed.]
Evaporate the chloroform extracts, and dissolve the residue in
the minimum amount of a 3% tartaric acid solution. If all the
residue doesn't dissolve, place it into suspension by shaking
vigorously.
Color the solution with an acid base indicator, and titrate to
find the approximate number of moles of the alkaloid present.
Transfer the solution to a separatory funnel, and wash the
other vessel with acid in order to get all the alkaloid out.
Pour the washings in the funnel also.
Bring the pH up to make the solution basic by adding sodium
bicarbonate solution, and add an equal volume of chloroform.
Shake thoroughly, let it settle, remove the bottom layer and
set aside.
Again add an equal portion of chloroform, shake, let settle
and remove bottom layer.
Combine chloroform extracts (bottom layers) and evaporate.
The residue remaining after evaporation is a semi-pure
concentrate of LSA (lysergic acid amide). The amide requires
some experimentation for dosage, but 1 mg of the concentrate
is a reasonable starting point. 1 mg LSA will produce effects
comparable to 100 micrograms of LSD.
#3: Ergot culture
NOTE: contact with ergot compounds can be dangerous. Only after a
basic understanding of the techniques employed in the handling of
dangerous or poisonous organisms is reached should one proceed with
the culture of ergot.
The need for absolute sterility cannot be overstressed. Consult
any elementary text on bacteriology for the correct equipment and
procedures. Avoid prolonged contact with ergot compounds, as they
are poisonous and can be fatal.
A) Get a source for Claviceps Purpurea fungus
If no source can be found, you can make a field trip to obtain
it from rye or other cereal grasses. Rye grass is the best
choice. The ergot will appear as a blackish growth on the
tops of the rye where the seeds are. They are approximately
the same shape as the seeds and are referred to as "heads" or
"ergot". From these heads or ergot sprout the Claviceps
Purpurea fungi.
They have long stems and bulbous heads when viewed under a
strong glass or microscope. It is these that must be removed
from the ergot, free from contamination, and used to inoculate
the culture material.
B) Make a culture medium
Combine the following ingredients in about 500 ml distilled
water in a 2 L small-neck flask:
Sucrose 100 g
Chick pea meal 50 g
Calcium nitrate 1 g
Ca(NO3)2
Monopotassium phosphate 0.25 g
KH2PO4
Magnesium sulphate 0.25 g
MgSO4
Potassium chloride 0.125 g
KCl
Ferrous sulphate heptahydrate 8.34 mg
FeSO47H20
Zinc sulphate heptahydrate 3.44 mg
ZnSO47H20
Add water to make up one liter
Adjust to pH 4 with ammonia solution and citric acid
Sterilize by autoclaving
C) Make a culture
Inoculate the sterilized medium with Claviceps Purpurea under
sterile conditions, stopper with sterilized cotton and
incubate for two weeks, periodically testing and maintaining
pH 4. After two weeks a surface culture can be seen on the
medium. Large-scale production of the fungus can now begin.
D) Large-scale production
Obtain several ordinary 1 gallon jugs.
Place a two-hole stopper in the necks of the jugs.
Fit a short (6 inch) tube in one hole, leaving two inches
above the stopper. Fit a short rubber tube to this. Fill a
small (500 ml) Erlenmeyer flask with a dilute solution of
sodium hypochlorite (NaClO). Extend a glass tube from the
rubber so the end is immersed in the hypochlorite.
Fit a long glass tube in the other stopper hole. It must
reach near the bottom of the jug and have about two inches
showing above the stopper. Attach a rubber tube to the glass
tube and fit a short glass tube to the end of the rubber tube.
Fill a large glass tube (1" x 6") with sterile cotton and fit
one-hole stoppers in the ends. Fit the small glass tube in
the end of the rubber tube into one stopper of the large tube.
Fit another small glass tube into the other stopper. A rubber
tube is connected to this and attached to small air pump
(obtained from a tropical fish store).
With this aeration equipment you can assure a supply of clean
air to the Claviceps Purpurea fungus while maintaining a
sterile environment inside the solution.
Dismantle the aerators. Place all the glass tubes, rubber
tubes, stoppers and cotton in a paper bag, seal tightly with
wire staples and sterilize in an autoclave.
Fill the 1-gallon jugs 2/3 to 3/4 full with the culture medium
and autoclave.
While these things are being sterilized, homogenize in a
blender the culture already obtained and use it to inoculate
the material in the gallon jugs. The blender must be sterile.
EVERYTHING must be sterile.
Assemble the aerators. Start the pumps. A slow bubbling in
each jug will provide enough oxygen to the cultures. A single
pump may be connected to several filters.
Let everything sit at room temperature (25 C) in a dark place
(never expose ergot alkaloids to bright light - they will
decompose) for a period of ten days.
After ten days, adjust the culture to 1% ethanol using 95%
ethanol under sterile conditions. Maintain growth for another
two weeks.
E) Extract ergot alkaloids
After a total of 24 days growth period, the culture should be
considered mature. Make the culture acidic with tartaric acid
and homogenize in a blender for one hour.
Adjust to pH 9 with ammonium hydroxide and extract with
benzene or chloroform/iso-butanol mixture.
Extract again with alcoholic tartaric acid and evaporate in a
vacuum to dryness.
The dry material is the salt (the tartaric acid salt, the
tartrate) of the ergot alkaloids, and is stored in this form
because the free basic material is too unstable and decomposes
readily in the presence of light, heat, moisture, and air.
To recover the free base for extraction of the amide or
synthesis to LSD, make the tartrate basic with ammonia to pH
9, extract with chloroform, and evaporate in vacuo.
-
#4: Synthesis of LSD from ergot alkaloids or LSA
(including sections on isomerization, separation,
purification & crystallization)
NOTE: the chemicals and reactions described below are potentially
dangerous even to an organic chemist in a well-equipped laboratory.
The publishers therefore disclaim responsibility for any damage or
injury resulting from the improper handling of the chemicals and
techniques described, and strongly urge all persons unqualified to
perform the reactions to use instead the comparatively easier,
safer ergot culture and LSA extraction process.
A) Synthesis of LSD
(iso- & dextro-lysergic acid diethylamide)
PREPARATORY: obtain one red and one yellow photographic safety
light and one weak, long-wave ultraviolet light. These are used to
prevent the hydrolysis of lysergic acid compounds.
NOTE: Aluminum foil must be used to cover the chemicals when light
is present. Rubber gloves must be worn; these compounds are
extremely poisonous.
[The source implies but does not state that one may replace
"ergot alkaloid" in the following with the seed-derived semi-
pure LSA concentrate from #2. --Ed.]
USING YELLOW LIGHT:
Place one volume of ergot alkaloid in a small roundbottom
flask. Add 2 volumes of anhydrous hydrazine and reflux for 30
minutes, or the mixture may be heated in a sealed tube at 112
Celsius for 30 minutes. If the reflux technique is used,
maintain atmospheric pressure by using an open container or
fractionating column.
After heating/refluxing, add 1.5 volumes of water to the
mixture and boil gently for 15 minutes. After boiling is
complete, cool the mixture in a refrigerator until
solidification. The solid material obtained is iso-lysergic
acid hydrazide.
USING RED LIGHT:
Chill all chemicals (reagents) to be used to 0 Celsius. Place
an open flask in an ice bath. Add 100 ml concentrated
hydrochloric acid (chilled to 0 C).
Quickly add 2.82 g of the lysergic acid hydrazide to the
hydrochloric acid, being careful to maintain a temperature of
0 Celsius.
Add 100 ml of a 0.1 N (1/10th Normal) solution of sodium
nitrite (chilled to 0 C) and stir vigorously for 3 minutes.
Continue stirring at 0 Celsius and add dropwise 130 ml of the
hydrochloric acid.
When the acid addition is complete, continue stirring for 5
minutes, then neutralize the solution with sodium bicarbonate,
using a saturated water solution of the bicarbonate.
Extract the solution with ether, remove the water layer, and
dissolve the gummy substance in ether. Add this to the ether
layer.
Add 3 g of diethylamine for every 30 ml of the ether extract.
Let this stand in the dark, and gradually warm up to 20
Celsius for at least 24 hours.
Evaporate this solution in a vacuum.
The material remaining is a mixture of the inactive
iso-lysergic acid diethylamide and the active lysergic acid
diethylamide (LSD-25). The inactive isomer must now be
converted (isomerized) to the active isomer to greatly
increase the yield, since the inactive compound predominates
in this synthesis.
B) Isomerization of iso-LSD into the active LSD-25
USING THE RED LIGHT:
Dissolve the synthesized material into the minimum amount of
ethyl alcohol.
Mix a 4 Normal solution of potassium hydroxide in ethanol.
The amount of solution needed is twice the volume of the
iso-LSD/ethanol solution.
Add the two solutions together and let the mixture sit for 4
hours at room temperature.
Neutralize the mixture with dilute hydrochloric acid, then
make it slightly basic with ammonium hydroxide.
Extract the mixture with chloroform, sparate the chloroform
layer, and extract this four times with a 25% volume of water.
Evaporate the chloroform in a vacuum. Discard the water
extracts. The material left after evaporation a mixture of
iso-LSD and LSD-25, the active LSD predominating.
The mixture may now be separated by chromatography and the
iso-LSD again isomerized by the above process.
C) Separation, purification & crystallization of LSD-25
USING A DARKROOM:
The material obtained from the isomerization process is now
dissolved in a solution prepared from 3 parts benzene/1 part
chloroform. Use 50 ml solvent per 1 gram LSD material.
Mix a slurry basic alumina in benzene. Pack it into a 1 inch
chromatoghraphy column until it fills 6 inches.
When the slurry settles, drain the benzene/chloroform down to
the level of the basic alumina, and carefully add an equal
amount of the LSD/solvent solution.
USING A WEAK, LONG-WAVE ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT:
(to follow the blue band only)
Drain the solution through the column. The fastest-moving,
blue fluorescent band contains the LSD-25. Collect this
fraction and evaporate in a vacuum. The syrup remaining will
crystallize spontaneously, but slowly. Do not heat.
Use the UV light only whe necessary to follow the blue band in
order to avoid decomposition of the compounds.
Dissolve the syrup or crystal in tartaric acid solution and
recrystallize to form the stable end-product (dextro lysergic
acid diethylamide tartrate).
The material remaining in the column may be removed with
methanol, evaporated in a vacuum, and recycled through the
isomerization and subsequent procedures by itself or combined
with fresh material.
Also, all leftover solutions and residues may be neutralized
with socium bicarbonate, evaporated in vacuo, and extracted
with ammoniacal chloroform, the extract evaporated to dryness,
and the residue reused.
#5: Preparation of lysergic acid from the amide
NOTE: this synthesis is as difficult and dangerous as the rest, and
is of use only if using one of the following two LSD synthesis
methods, which require lysergic acid as the starting compound. The
lysergic acid amide obtained from the extract of ergot or seeds
need not be converted to the acid prior to its use in the synthesis
of LSD providing that the synthesis used is #4 given above, and
giving the starting material "ergot alkaloid".
Dissolve 10 g lysergic acid amide in 200 ml methanolic
potassium hydroxide solution.
Remove the methanol by vacuum as soon as the amide is
dissolved.
Dissolve the residue which is left into 200 ml of an 8%
solution of potassium hydroxide in water.
Heat this mixture on a steam bath for 1 hour.
Pass a steam of nitrogen gas through the flask during the
heating process. (The ammonia which is evolved in the gas
stream may be titrated with hydrochloric acid in order to
follow the reaction.)
Neutralize the mixture with tartaric acid (neutral to congo
red) and run it through a filter paper.
Extract the mixture with ether in a separatory funnel. Save
the water layer, discard the ether layer.
Filter the solution through a filter paper and evaporate.
Upon evaporation, dry crystals of lysergic acid will be
obtained.
#6: Synthesis of LSD
using lysergic acid
the quickest way to make pure LSD-25
PREPARATORY: see #4
NOTE: The chemicals and techniques described are potentially
dangerous. It is highly recommended that the physical and chemical
properties of the reagents used be studied by those persons
unfamiliar with them before the synthesis is attempted.
USING THE YELLOW LIGHT:
5.36 g of d-lysergic acid are suspended in 125 ml
acetonitrile, and the suspension is cooled to about -20
Celsius in a bath of acetone cooled with dry ice.
To the suspension is added a cold (-20 C) solution of 8.82 g
of trifluoracetic anhydride in 75 ml acetonitrile. The
mixture is allowed to stand at -20 C for about 1 1/2 (one and
one-half) hours.
(During this time the suspended material dissolves and the
d-lysergic acid id converted to the mixed anhydride of
lysergic and trifluoracetic acids.)
The mixed anhydride can be separated in the form of an oil by
evaporating the solvent in vacuo at a temperature below about
0 Celsius.
Everything must be kept anhydrous.
USING THE RED LIGHT:
The solution of mixed anhydrides in acetonitrile from above is
added to 150 ml of acetonitrile containing 7.6 g of
diethylamine.
The mixture is held in the dark at room temperature for about
2 hours.
The acetonitrile is evaporated in vacuo, leaving a residue of
LSD-25 plus impurities.
The residue is dissolved in 150 ml of chloroform and 20 ml of
ice water.
The chloroform layer is removed and the aqueous layer is
extracted with several portions of chloroform. The chloroform
portions are are combined and, in turn, washed with four 50 ml
portions of ice-cold water.
The chloroform solution is then dried over anhydrous sodium
sulfate and evaporated in vacuo.
NOTE: following the completion of this synthesis, follow the
procedures described for separation, purification, and
crystallization of LSD-25. If a higher yield is desired, follow
the procedure on isomerization after doing the separation,
purification, and crystallization.
#7: Synthesis of LSD
using lysergic acid
high-yielding and fast
PREPARATORY: see #4
NOTE: The chemicals and techniques described are potentially
dangerous. It is highly recommended that the physical and chemical
properties of the reagents used be studied by those persons
unfamiliar with them before the synthesis is attempted.
NOTE: the following procedure gives good yield and is very fast,
with little iso-lysergic acid being produced. However, the
stoichiometry must be exact or yields will drop
USING WHITE LIGHT:
Sulfur trioxide is produced in an anhydrous state by carefully
decomposing anhydrous ferric sulfate at approximately 480
Celsius. Store under anhydrous conditions.
USING WHITE LIGHT:
A carefully-dried 22 liter RB flask fitted with an ice bath,
dropping funnel, and mechanical stirrer is charged with 10 to
11 liters of dimethylformamide (freshly distilled under
reduced pressure).
The condenser and dropping funnel are both protected against
atmospheric moisture.
2 lb. of sulfur trioxide (Sulfan B) are introduced dropwise,
very cautiously with stirring, during 4 to 5 hours. The
temperature is kept at 0-5 Celsius throughout the addition.
After the addition is complete, the mixture is stirred for 1
to 2 hours until some separated crystalline sulfur trioxide-
dimethylformamide complex has dissolved.
The reagent is transferred to an air-tight automatic pipette
for convenient dispensing, and kept in the cold. Although the
reagent, which is colorless, may change to yellow and red, its
efficiency remains unimpaired for three to four months in cold
storage.
An aliquot is dissolved in water and titrated with standard
NaOH to a phenolphthalein end point.
USING RED LIGHT:
A solution of 7.15 g of d-lysergic acid monohydrate (25 mmol)
and 1.06 g of lithium hydroxide hydrate (25 mmol) in 200 L of
MeOH is prepared.
The solvent is distilled on the steam bath under reduced
pressure.
The residue of glass-like lithium lysergate is dissolved in
400 ml of anhydrous dimethyl formamide.
From this solution, about 200 ml of the dimethyl formamide is
distilled off at 15mm pressure through a 12-inch helices
packed column.
The resulting anhydrous solution of lithium lysergate left
behind is cooled to 0 Celsius and, with stirring, treated
rapidly with 500 ml of SO3DMF solution (1.00 Molar).
The mixture is stirred in the cold for 10 minutes and then
9.14 g (125.0 mmol) of diethylamine is added.
The stirring and cooling are continued for 10 minutes longer,
when 400 ml of water is added to decompose the reaction
complex.
After mixing thoroughly, 200 ml of saturated aqueous saline
solution is added. The amide product is isolated by repeated
extraction with 500 ml portions of ethylene dichloride.
The combined extract is dried and then concentrated to a syrup
under reduced pressure. Do not heat the syrup during
concentration. The LSD may crystallize out, but the crystals
and the mother liquor may be chromatographed according to the
instructions in the synthesis of LSD #4.
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Another file downloaded from: The NIRVANAnet(tm) Seven
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Taipan Enigma 510/935-5845
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408/363-9766
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510/527-1662
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 801/278-2699
The New Dork Sublime Biffnix 415/864-DORK
The Shrine Rif Raf 206/794-6674
Planet Mirth Simon Jester 510/786-6560
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
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******NOTICE: This File is Pure Bullshit. If you make this stuff, and take
it, you will probably end up killing yourself.******
MAKING LSD
------ ---
Common LSD, being of the strangest drugs, available to people on the
black market, is not too hard to make in your average run-of-the-mill
kitchen. LSD (Lysergic acid Diethylamide) is a complex organic mixure that
gives some people (most) a trip to the moon or other nearby celestial
body.
ITEMS NEEDED:
----- ------
1-About 200-250 grams of MORNING GLORY SEEDS or BAY HAWAIIAN WOOD ROSE
SEEDS. The Morning Glory seeds can be obtained at most plant nurseries.
2-200 cc. of petroleum ether
3-Small piece of window screen or a strainer
4-A couple of large glasses
5-cookie tray (an old one, never to be used again)
6-260 cc. of wood alcohol (call your local drug store).
7-Capsule containers (jel)
=========================================================================
Let's get started:
1. Grind up about 170 grams of Morning Glory Seeds.
2. In 145 cc. of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two or three days.
3. With screen, filter the liquid thru it and save the seed mush and
allow it to dry completely.
4. Let the mush soak in 130 cc. of
wood alcohol.
5. Filter solution again only. Save the liquid in a large glass jar.
6. Soak the seed mush again in 130 cc. of wood alcohol for two more days.
7. Filter out the mush and keep the liquid. Now, get the liquid that was
saved in step 5.
8. Now, pour both liquids in a cookie tray and let it dry.
9. When all the liquid has dried, a yellowish gummy looking substance will
appear on the cookie sheet.
10. Take the yellow gum and put this into capsules.
=========================================================================
You can get the capsules just by buying something like DEXITRIM or some
other pill. Even CONTACT comes in jel capsules. Just empty them out and
put the yellow gum in the capsules. Allow the capsules to sit over night
for best results.
34 Grams of morning glory=1 trip to da moon
18 Grams of hawaiian wood=Another trip to da moon
-
How To Make DMT
DMT stands for N,N-dimethyltryptamine. It is a semisynthetic
compound similar to psilocin(the hallucinogenic substance in
psilocybin) ins structure. The most common method of ingestion is
smoking. Soaked parsley leaves are the usual method of ingestion
although persons have dipped marijuana in it and said the
experience was fantastic. The following recipe can be performed in
the kitchen.
Recipe for DMT:
1. Mix thoroughly and dissolve 25 grams of indole with a pound of
dry ethyl ether in a 2000 ml flask(2 quart jar.)
2. Take an ice tray and fill with chipped or shaved ice. Cool
solution for about 35 minutes until it reaches 0 degrees C. At the
same time cool 50 ml dry oxalychloride to about 5 degrees below 0
C. in the same ice tray.
3. VERY slowly add the oxalychloride solution to the indole
solution. These two chemicals are highly reactive. Avoid boiling
over, contact with skin, and fumes.
4. Wait until all the bubbling has died down, then add a few
handfuls of table salt to the ice tray, to cool the solution
further. Label the solution "solution 1" and put it in the
freezer.
5. Cool 100 ml. of dry ethyl ether in a 500 ml. flask to 0 degrees
C. in a salted ice tray. At the same time cool an unopened bottle
of dimethylamine to 0 degrees C. in the same ice bath.
6. Open the seal of the dimethylamine bottle and slowly pour a
steady stream into the ether. Label "solution 2."
7. Very slowly and carefully add solution "1" and "2" together.
8. Now take the mixed solutions from the ice tray and bring up to
room temperature stirring the solution all the time. You should be
left with a solution that is almost clear. If it is still murky,
continue stirring until it becomes as clear as possible.
9. Now filter the solution to seperate the precipitate by suction.
<---Solution and Precipitate
------------
\ /<---Funnel / / <-- Rubber hose to
\ / and / / Vacuum source
\ / Filter /____/
\*****\ /*************{ }*****/ <--- Two hole
\****{ }*************{ }****/ rubber stopper
\ { } { } <-/--- Glass Tube
\ { } { } /
| { } { } |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|__________________________|
Figure A.
10. Refilter with suction after pouring technical ether over the
precipitate.
11. Repeat filtering once more with ether, then twice with water.
12. Let this substance dry on a plastic or china plate.(do not use
metal) After drying, a solid material will be formed. Take
particles and place them in an 800 ml beaker.
13. Mix 100 ml. benzene with 100 ml. methyl alcohol. After this
mixture has been stirred, cover solid particles from step 12 with
about 1/2 inch of the solution and heat the beaker in water until
all solid material had dissolved. Add more solvent if
necessary.(Note: Do not place beaker in water bath directly over
the flame.)
14. After all solid material has dissolved, remove beaker from the
heat, and allow to cool. As it cools, small needle-shaped crystals
will appear. When this happens, try to pour off as much solvent as
possible without disturbing the crystals.
15. Place crystals in a 1000 ml flask and dissolve in
tetrahydrofurane.(Use only as much as absolutely necessary.) Label
this solution "A".
16. Slowly mix 200 ml. tetrahydrofurane and 20 grams lithium
aluminum hydride in a 500 ml flask, and label it solution "B".
(By the way, lithuim aluminum hydride ignites on contact with
moisture. Protect eyes and hands.)
17. Mix solutions "A" and "B" slowly, stirring constantly.
18. Prepare a water bath and heat solution for three hours,
stirring for four minutes every half hour. When not stirring, make
sure to use aspirator tube.
/ / <--- Rubber Tubing
---
\**{ }**/<---- One hole rubber stopper
/**{ }**\ and glass tubing
/ { } \
/ { } \
: :
: :
: :
\ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ :_____________:~/
\______________________________/
Heat source
Figure B.
Place Figure B. flask at a higher level than Figure A. flask. Run
tube from Figure B. flask down to left side of figure A. flask,
replacing funnel with glass tubing. Disconnect right side tube
from vacuum source. This will be used as the aspirator tube.
19. When this is completed, allow the flask to remain at room
temperature for about 20 minutes. Then place in salted ice bath,
and cool to 0 degrees C. Add a small amount of chilled methanol,
stirring gently until solution appears murky.
20. Filter this murky solution through a paper filter in a funnel,
and collect the filtered liquid in a flask.
21. Add 100 ml. of tetrahydrofuran through the filter and collect
in the same flask. Now heat the solution in a water bath until
most of the tetrahydrofuran is evaporated and a gooey substance
remains.
22. Place little piles of this substance on a cookie tray and dry
with a heat lamp for three or four hours.
Well, after all that you now have DMT. Was it worth it? To ingest,
crumble a small quantity with parsley or mint, and smoke. Do not
inject. Do not mix with tobacco.
Keep your thoughts free
and your reality...err
different.
- Black Adder
-
I can tell you that the first few are not how you make proper MDMA.
If you want real MDMA, you need something that looks like this:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e4/MDMAjakarta.jpg
-
Sorry to tell you, But 95% of those "How to make LSD" teks you posted are full of shit. Don't get me wrong, you will probably get a hallucinogenic reaction from the end product. BUT THAT DOES NOT MEAN IT'S LSD. The clearnet is infested with that crap (and the few legit methods that you did mention are outdated as hell). And while the difference between a crude LSA extract and LSD might be lost on most of the 12yo brats that spend all day reading trip reports on erowid....people here tend to be a bit smarter. You should do some intensive studying on DF if you want some real kitchen teks that a laymen can understand and a scientist can expound upon,
-
Yeah, as above, the first few involving Morning Glory or HBWR seeds are for extracting LSA, not LSD. It is good for those that are interested in LSA though as it has been said that performing extractions help to combat the negative side effects that you get from eating the seeds themselves (nausea, vasoconstriction, etc).
There are many different sources for this information on the net, but for most people it will either be
A) Too expensive
B) Too confusing
C) Too hard to come by (sourcing watched items)
There are the more "simplified" methods (shake n bake for meth), but they also have higher risks involved.
-
Agreed, But when I think of all the horror stories I've read about High-School fuck-tards, trying to make meth based off of something they read online. It makes me think that something like an MCAT synth would be about as complicated as a reader of a thread like this should go. More likely, If a thread like this is allowed to exist it should be populated by simpler extractions and stuff like DMT from Mimosa, that the average denizen of SR could conceivably pull off
Let me see if i cant find an old file I started to write when I was younger entitled "Loki's Guide to Kitchen Kemistrie". gonna have to dust off the old windoze 95 machine.
-
Oh yeah, there are definitely a lot of people out there who look into this kind of thing thinking it will be quick and easy with fully reading up on any risks involved. If you're going to try something like that, you should actually spend the time reading up on it as much as you can and finding out the best, and safest way you can go about it.
Haha, if you really do have it, I'd love to have a read of it ;)
And I agree, DMT is a great starting place as it involves easy to obtain materials, and is relatively safe if you take the precautions necessary. Below is a simple extraction that has materials that most anyone will already have, or can find at their local supermarket/hardware store/etc.
DMT STB Extraction (Straight-To-Base)
--------------------------------------
Materials
--------------------------------------
2-3L HDPE2 Container (eg. Milk/Orange Juice Jug)
1500mL H2O
300mL Naptha
100g Lye[NaOH]
100g MHRB
Turkey Baster/Syringe/Dropper
1 glass jar, for heating naptha
3 glass containers/glasses/cups, for freeze precip
Glad Wrap
--------------------------------------
Method:
--------------------------------------
1. Add 1500mL H2O to container.
2. Slowly Add 100g NaOH to container. (Wear goggles and gloves, this stuff will burn you) *This basifies the H2O*
3. Slowly shake the container (with the lid on), removing the lid as the pressure builds up to avoid it exploding.
4. Add 100g MHRB to the container.
5. Shake the container well to ensure the contents are mixed thoroughly. If you feel the pressure building, remove the lid to release it.
6. Let the container sit for 1-2 hours (1 hour minimum).
7. Heat a saucepan of water on the stove until it boils.
8. Remove the saucepan from the stove and move it away.
9. Fill up one of the glass jars with 300mL naptha, and place the jar in the boiled water. *DO NOT GET NAPTHA NEAR AN OPEN FLAME)
10. Once the naptha is heated, measure out 75mL and add it to the mixture.
11. Roll the container end over end 4-5 times. Let the two layers separate and repeat 2 more times.
12. Once the layers have separated, using a turkey baster or syringe, remove the top layer (naptha) from the container. If you get any MHRB solution, simply place it back in the container and continue. Place the decanted naptha into one of your 3 glass containers.
13. Repeat steps 10-12 2 more times adding to your remaining 2 glass containers, and repeat steps 10 and 11 once more, leaving the last naptha pull in the MHRB solution over night.
14. Cover your 3 glass containers with Glad Wrap to ensure they are air-tight to avoid condensation.
15. Place the 3 containers in the freezer over night. (or 12 hours)
16. When you wake up, remove them from the freezer, one-by-one, slowly pouring off the naptha to avoid losing any crystals. *The crystals will re-dissolve into the naptha as it warms up, so it is best to do this as soon as they come out of the freezer*
17. Leave the glass containers in a spot they won't be touched and wait until the rest of the naptha has evaporated (the smell will be completely gone), and you can then scrape up the resulting DMT crystals.
18. Don't forget to repeat steps 12, 14-17 for the pull left in the solution.
--------------------------------------
[Edit] Mods, please remove this information if it is not allowed.
-
It appears that the clunker got fried during my microwave cannon experiments (RIP my first CPU :'()
I'm gonna try and redo it as It had a lot of person adaptions of common teks and i tried to explain the chemistry of everything in understandable terms (Polar vs Non-Polar Solvents) (Freebase vs. various salts). But I had also threw in a lot of rants about common myths and urban legends.
I never finished it because as I started to wear the tin-foil hat and see with my real eyes. it felt more like it could become Exhibit A in a trial.
To give you an Idea of its contents, here are some of the comical chapters I remember titling (keep in mind that I was a late-teen at the time):
LSA: A Glorious Morning with Morning Glories
N02: What Not To Do (The difference between hippie-crack and inhalants)
Salvia Divinorum: (AKA: What the fuck was that)
you get the Idea......
-
RIP, letting go of firsts is a hard thing.
That's one of the things a lot of the simpler teks don't cover (what is happening, what the chemicals do and what can be used/substituted,etc). I suppose that's the point of them though, just a quick solution for people looking for a quick high.
I have a lot of interest in LSA as that was my very first psychedelic experience, but the negative effects that come with it were pretty bad (both before and after the trip).
It sounds like an interesting read based on those titles :P But I can understand the whole 'Exhibit A' thing. You never know what they will use against you, even if it is 'educational' information.
-
LSA recipes still posing as LSD? Help I'm stuck in 1996 apparently. Sorry dude - all that stuff is either bogus or half truth and old as fuck.
-
Here is a raw version of the second chapter that I just typed up from memory (the first was a bunch of ranting about safety and the basics of extraction procedures)
ALL ABOUT HASH: How to Make it and How to Take it
I would like to start by mentioning that there are 4 main types of hash, which I will list by order of (very) generalized potency.
1)Fake Hash
2)Crude Solvent Hash
3)Trichrome Hash
4)Honey Oil
1)Fake Hash: Pretty much self explanatory. We've all got screwed at one point or another with this. More often than not its just a chunk of roofing tar or something else that's black and sticky. Or at best you get that shitty ass soap hash that originated from spain and still floats around the UK to this day (the stuff that smelled like gas and had bits of plastic in it)
2) Crude Solvent Hash: This is the stuff that kids make under their bed before they learn where to buy it (or how to make better stuff). it can be made with any part of the plant except for the roots and seeds. And you can make it with a lot of different solvent, as long as it evaporates cleanly. The most preferred solvent among DIYers for this quick and dirty extract is %91 Isopropanol, but naptha, methanol, ethanol, and acetone can also be used is needed.
(Quick Note for making 91%+ Isopropanol from lower proof rubbing alcohol:)
If you need to remove water from rubbing alcohol with out a distillation setup, You can salt the water out of it. simply put the Rubbing alcohol in a glass jar (better yet, a separation funnel) and stir in some NON-IODIZED salt until a separation occurs. you will end up with a top layer of Isopropanol and a bottom layer of brine water. then just separate the two layers and throw away the bottom half.
Basically you just grind up the cannabis material as finely as possible and mix it with the solvent for anywhere from a 3-72+ hours. Then you filter out the plant matter and evaporate the liquid. Evaporation times can be minimized by increasing surface area and wind flow (put the liquid in a glass pan and aim a fan at it). The final product is a super sticky semi-solid with a dark green to black color and tastes like chlorophyll (AKA: plant asshole). Overall, it gets you high and Can be made with a handful of stems if your desperate. And although you might impress some high school friends with it, it still falls short of the real McCoy.
3) Trichrome Hash. This is the stuff that you see most often. It comes in many forms, from a loosely clumped "dirt" to solid and brittle bricks to black and sticky stuff that has pressed to the point of isomerization. It can be made in variety of ways from grinder kief, to hand rub to Icebags to printing screens (and more...) but the same principals apply. this type of hash is comprised principally of resin glands (trichromes) from the cannabis plant. that are pressed into a solid form.
The easiest way to make it at home is to save the kief from the bottom part of a grinder until you have enough to press. The easiest way to press such small amounts is to put the keif in a corner of a cigarette pack cellophane and fold it so you have a nice little square. Step on this with your heel and press it into the floor with all your weight. open it up and you will have a flat and delicate brick, break this back up and fold it into a smaller square and repeat. After a while your chunk will become harder and browner and it is up to you to decide how far you want to go.
For larger amounts. If you want to make several grams you should consider Ice separation. To do this, you grind up and freeze the cannabis to make the trichromes brittle. Then you put the plant matter in a blender with water and lots of ice and blend until you have a slightly green and frothy liquid. Let this set for a while in the fridge and the weed will begin float to the top and what appears to be sand will begin to collect at the bottom (Gravity at work!!!! LOL). after you no 12 hours or so ou can pull out the plant matter and carefully drain the majority of the liquid off (be careful not to upset the collection at the bottom).
After most the water is poured off, you can pour the rest of the liquid through a coffee filter to collect the "sand".
After the filter drains you can fold it up and squeeze it in a towel to absorb as much excess water as possible.
Once the trichrome sand is dry, you can press it in a manner similar to that above.
4) Honey Oil: Notoriously difficult to work with but still the best of the best. A Drop of this can make a cigarette as potent as the fattest blunt of high grade. It is almost always made via a supercritical fluid extraction with Butane (There is rumor that you can use propane and c02 as well but I have not personally confirmed this). the basic idea is to put the weed in a tube with caps on both ends. One cap has a hole drilled of the proper size to accept a butane canister and the other cap as a bunch of holes like a salt shaker. The butane hole should be on top and the bottom cap should be lined with a coffee filter on the inside to prevent weed from spilling out. After this marijuana-filled, pipe-bomb looking contraption is assembled your gonna wanna take it outside where there is nothing around to spark the butane.
You will also need a glass dish to collect the oil, some gloves to keep your hands from freezing (Butane is COLD) and some CLEAN butane (colibri is best, rosonal is nasty) Now you just hold the tube over the glass dish and empty the butane into it (use about 12oz of butane per Oz of weed)
after about 15-30 seconds you will start to see it come out of the bottom and it will take a few minutes to finish draining. Now you can watch your dish of yellow butane boil at room temperature.
If boiling slows down as the glass frosts over, just touch the dish and it will start rolling again.
After most of the butane evaporates you can put the dish in a hot water bath to get evaporate the rest and in a few hours you will have one of the most potent marijuana concoctions in the world. GOOD LUCK
-
That's a pretty nice writeup. Nothing better than being given various methods, let alone different qualities that can be achieved.
With your LSA section, was it an extraction method? If so, did you test it out? Did you notice any difference between taking the seeds themselves versus taking the extraction? (Eg. nausea during the come-up and horrible nausea, sore/weak body the next day)
-
there is much less nausea and more psychedelia with a proper CWE. Its like night and day compared to chewing seeds. with the exception of the one time that I decided to chew on 7.5 grams of MG seed without swallowing for a whole hour, whilst periodically taking small sips of vodka to increase absorption BUT I DID NOT SWALLOW THE MUSH. While that was probably the strongest LSA trip I have ever had to date, there was to much vasoconstriction for me to enjoy myself.
When It comes to CWE. I think the most important aspects are:
1)effective grinding (the electric coffee grinder is your friend)
2) make sure the water is slightly acidic (add a couple squirts of lemon juice)
3) NEVER extract for longer than 30-45 minutes. It is far better to use extra seed material and shorter extraction times, in order to minimize the amount of unwanted chemicals
4) Filter it GOOD. I usually filter it several times: first with a t-shirt to remove most of the solids and then several times with coffee filters. If I have any activated charcoal lying about, I often put a teaspoon of it in the final coffee filter for an extra cleanup)
5) Never use more than 20 Grams of MG at once without extensive experience. Even than, the vasoconstriction becomes a serious thing.
Aside from that, I have always wanted to recreate the super potent, double acid/base extraction that peter webster made for the LSD Symposium that one year. But I have never been able to source the exotic acids and bases that he used (let alone the professional lab equipment)
-
Like I said, its just random stuff that I've found on my HDD and old as shit, but maybe some information helps anyone here ;)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Secrets of Methamphetamine Manufacture (3rd ed.)
by Uncle Fester
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pastebin Link: http://pastebin.com/8aVRTLcG <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
2nd Meth Synthesis:
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Methamphetamine synthesis:
The major problem with methedrine synthesis is procuring the precursors.
Phenyl-2-propanone is the most direct precursor to my knowledge and is
(unfortunately?) at Schedule III controlled substance. It has no
pharmacological activity and yet the DEA saw fit to regulate it around 1975.
The first synthesis I will give uses this in as a starting material. Actually
it is still possible to find this substance tucked away in store rooms in many
universities that presumably purchased the compound before it was controlled.
A friend of mine came across 500 mls made by Eastman Kodak in the stock room at
Princeton. I purchased 100 mls when I lived in England many years ago and did
my first run using it. The reaction can be completed in about 6 hours giving
about 60% yield; I am a biologist, not a chemist so someone who knew what they
were doing could probably improve on that.
Reagents:
1-phenyl-2-propanone 20 gm
EtOH 100 ml
Methylamine 40% in water 100 mls
Aluminum foil 20 gm
Mercury II Chloride 150 mg
Reflux above mixture with stirring for two hours in 500 ml round bottom flask.
Concentrate rxn mix under reduced pressure at room temp. Pour on to ice cold
KOH sol'n (60 gm in about 200 mls water). At this step, big problems can
happen. A great deal of heat is liberated. Add very *slowly* and keep in an
ice bath. Heat will degrade your product in to god knows what and just might
end up on the ceiling, if you are not careful.) Extract solution w/ 125 x 3 mls
ethyl ether. Recover organic layer. Extract ether with 3N HCl 25 x 3 mls.
Add 30 mls 6 N NaOH solution (cold) to acid solution, add more if solution is
not very basic. Extract basic solution with 25 x 3 mls of ether. Dry over
anhydrous sodium sulfate, filter. Rotovap. off ether (distill under reduced
pressure if you want to get fancy but it is not absolutely necessary) and
redissolve in anhydrous ether, 100-200 mls. Bubble dry HCl gas (made my
dropping conc. HCl onto conc. Sulfuric acid) through mixture and methedrine HCl
should ppt. as white fluffy powder.
Filter off meth and repeat for second and third crop. Keep the first for
yourself and sell the rest. The subsequent crops can be pink or purplish and
are still effective pharmacologically but they are not very clean. I hope this
was what you are after. If it is, drop me another line and I will give you the
synthesis for the phenyl-2-propanone. That synthesis is much nastier, more
dangerous and takes a lot more expertise.
Now the pitch: Methedrine is a heinous chemical. I can handle most drugs,
except meth. I first did this synthesis for kicks. It quickly became a lot
more than that. I started mainlining it and things got really out of hand. I
would up in the emergency room twice, the psych ward once, got kicked out of
Johns Hopkins University lost my job at NIDA and very nearly killed myself and
a bunch of other people. Actually, if you want more information, I would much
rather talk about that-- if only to discourage.... well, maybe just to warn
people to be *very* careful when dabbling in CNS stimulants. Speed may not
kill but it can fuck you up very bad.
THE TRIED AND TRUE
HOME PRODUCTION METHOD FOR
"METHAMPHETAMINE"
By: The Leftist
Also known as:"CRYSTAL","METH","CRANK","SPEED" etc..........
List of chemicals and materials:
Dilute Hydrochloric acid--> This may be purchased at the hardware store.
Its sold as a brick and driveway cleaner. They call it muriatic acid.
Sodium Hydroxide--> This, you probably already have. Its called "lye" at most
places, its drain cleaner.
Ethyl Ether--> You'll probably have to make this. Don't worry, its a breeze.
Just go to your local K-mart or Auto parts store, and get a can of that
"STARTING FLUID" it comes in a spray can. Its used for cold weather starting
of gasoline engines.
"VICKS" Nasal Inhalers--> USE ONLY VICKS!! No other kind will work that I
know of. These are at any drug store or grocery, etc. You need 12 of 'em, but
don't buy 'em by the dozen. Unless its wintertime, then you can just say
you're from some nursing home, and your stockin' up for the patients. Otherwise
buy 'em 2 at a time,if possible. Get a friend to help you. The druggists at the
drug store usually will know whats goin on if you buy quantity.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
LIST OF EQUIPMENT
Two large eyedroppers
Ten small glass bottles
One large glass or porcelin bowl
Coffee filters
One small jar with a top
One pyrex baking dish
One glass test tube
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-==*(> N O T I C E <)*==-
PLEASE! DONT SMOKE IN THE SAME ROOM WHEN YOU DO THIS. OPEN A WINDOW IN THE ROOM
IF POSSIBLE FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY. THIS RECIPE HAS BEEN TESTED AND
THIS IS THE BEST WAY TO DO IT. DON'T TAKE SHORTCUTS, AND DON'T EVEN START TO DO
THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE ABOUT 3 HOURS SPARE.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
PREPARING ETHER!
(DO THIS FIRST)
Take one of the small bottles,and spray starter fluid in it till it looks
half-full. then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake
for 5 minutes. Then, draw off the top layer with the eyedropper, and throw away
the water layer. repeat this until you have about 3 oz. of ether. put the cap
on it, and put it in the refrigerator if you can.(if you cant, dont worry about
it) youll use this in the procedure below.
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
THE TRIED AND TRUE HOME PRODUCTION METHOD
(1) Break open the inhalers, a pair of real sharp scissors does this good.
Place the cottens that were inside in a jar and close the lid.(remember you use
all 12 cottens.)
(2) In the bowl, combine 1- 1/3 oz. water and 2/3 oz. muriatic acid.Shred
cottens in this solution, and knead for 5 minutes with hands.(ALWAYS BE SURE
THERES CLEAN RUBBER GLOVES on your hands.) you can do it barehanded if youve
got tough skin.Squeeze all juice out of filters after you knead,and throw em
away.
(3) Filter the remaining liquid into the quart jar. It will be neccasary to do
this several times to get that awful smelling oil out. The chemicals in the
inhalers have been bonded to the Hcl, and the oils have been filtered off.
throw the filters away.
(4) Pour enough of the solution into a small bottle to fill it 1/3 full. save
any leftover juice for the second batch.
(5) Pour 1/4 teaspoon of the lyle crystal into the bottle and agitate.Do this
step until the mixture remains cloudy.
(6) Fill the bottle from step (5) up the rest of the way with Ether.Cap the
bottle, and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every
molecule of the free-base to the Ether for as long as possible.
(7) Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick.
tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible.
(8) Remove the top layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of
the middle layer in it. Save the ether and throw the rest away.
(9) Fill a bottle half-way with water and about 10 drops of Hcl. pour the top
layer that you saved, and shake for about 2 minutes.when it settles, remove the
top layer, and throw the top layer away. The free base has now been bonded with
the Hcl in the water.
(10) if theres any juice left from step (3), repeat the process with that.
(11) Evaporate the solution in the pyrex dish, using low heat. The slower you
evaporate the solution, the better. Ive found, that placing it on top of a hot
water heater works best.
The crystals that remain are pure meth-amphetamine hydrochloride. (synonymous
with desoxyephidrine hydrochloride)
^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^
NOTES: It's a good idea to do this when your not fucked up. desoxyephedrine is
the same thing as meth-amphetamine, just different names. Wash your hands
thoroughly, and use rubber gloves. Don't wash your hands with soap, then go
stickin' your fingers in this stuff. Soap will have a neutralizing effect on
this process.
This stuff is real good. Don't do too much you can overdose if you take too
much. The best way to do this stuff if you don't mainline is to take a ball a
little bit smaller than a pea, and put it in a asprin capsule and swallow that.
Or else snort the crystal, you may want to cut it with vitamin b-12 or mannitol
before you do this. When buying the inhalers, look for the exp. date. Dont buy
real old inhalers, or try to improve this recipe unless you know how to do it.
12 inhalers is all you need dont use more than 12. Its best to throw all the
wastes into the same bag and dispose of it properly. this shit is so smelly
youll get busted by mom if ya dont. Be safe, and dont get busted with the shit.
they WILL put you in jail for possesion, in case you didn't know.x
-
Yea. The Uncle fester stuff is easy as hell to get. All of his teks (plus a shitload more) are hosted already on Drugs-Forum and other like-minded sites.
Plus. Alot of his stuff isn't really relevant anymore. (I'm pretty sure the composition of VICKS inhalers changed years ago)
So this is basically like posting an old recipe from the Jack Kerouac days on how to purify paregoric. Nostalgic as hell, but ultimately confusing and useless to most of the n00bs that would actually try to use the info.
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there is much less nausea and more psychedelia with a proper CWE. Its like night and day compared to chewing seeds. with the exception of the one time that I decided to chew on 7.5 grams of MG seed without swallowing for a whole hour, whilst periodically taking small sips of vodka to increase absorption BUT I DID NOT SWALLOW THE MUSH. While that was probably the strongest LSA trip I have ever had to date, there was to much vasoconstriction for me to enjoy myself.
Ah okay. That sounds like a way to go about it. For me, I had some ground up HBWR in caps (approx. 8 seeds), and there was an on/off nausea during the come up, but that went away just before I first started feeling it. I would have taken that kind of nausea over the hangover the next day. I felt really sick, my whole body ached as if I had worked out every muscle in my body, I just wanted to lie down and not do anything. Colours seemed more brighter and everything looked a little different, but it wasn't worth the hangover. I mean, the hallucinations were great, but the negatives outweigh the positives in this case, especially when I can get other things without those problems.
Aside from that, I have always wanted to recreate the super potent, double acid/base extraction that peter webster made for the LSD Symposium that one year. But I have never been able to source the exotic acids and bases that he used (let alone the professional lab equipment)
That sounds interesting. Is the information available online?
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Yea its a PDF available online called "Mixing the Kykeon"
you can get it here http://www.psychedelic-library.org/Mixing%20the%20Kykeon%20Final%20Draft.pdf
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Cool. Thanks for the link. It looks like an interesting read, and it's not overly long either.